OK it is time to get down to it. How could we have power at night with no sun for solar power. Simple answer is a battery bank. Charges during the day and provides power at night. On day's with little to no solar / sun power we had a generator. Problem is the generator uses gas and makes it so you are not so self sustainable. I looked into other options like making hydrogen. Problem with storing hydrogen is risk of explosion and storage. I found on line that a professor came up with a great idea of using chicken feathers in the storage tank for hydrogen. The many pours in the feathers makes for space for the hydrogen. For me this is just a little too far out of my reach.
Lots of info to share so just take your time to take it in.
HOME
POWER BATTERIES
THE
BATTERY IN THE HOME POWER SYSTEM
The
battery bank in a home power system serves two purposes. It acts as a
voltage stabilizer for the system, moderating the high voltages that
can occur during battery charging and minimizing the low voltages
common in high demand situations. It also acts as a power reservoir,
supplying the power needed when the load demand exceeds the
capabilities of the power (charging) source. For instance, if you
have a solar panel that produces 51 watts of power and want it to
power a light bulb that requires 100 watts, the additional 49 watts
of power required by the light bulb will be supplied by the battery.
The power used by the battery is then replaced when the light bulb is
not in use.
RV/MARINE
BATTERIES
RV
and marine batteries are available in a variety of sizes to 100 amp
hour and are normally 12 volt. They may be of the standard,
serviceable type or the sealed, "maintenance-free" style.
They are common in small home power and portable power systems.
Advantages: These batteries are
small, compact and easy to handle and install. Their initial cost is
relatively low. The sealed types have the added advantage of being
nonspillable and low gassing which makes them attractive for indoor
applications.
Disadvantages: These batteries
are not designed for heavy cycling so they may have a shorter life
span than other types, depending on how heavily they are cycled. To
obtain more than 100 amp hours capacity more than one battery must be
connected in parallel. The sealed types have the added disadvantage
of having limited cycling capability and sensitive charging
characteristics. They can easily be overcharged.
GOLF
CART BATTERIES
These
batteries are available in 220 to 300 amp hour capacities and are
normally 6 volts per battery. They are a good choice for small to
medium home systems.
Advantages: Since these
batteries are designed for deep cycling they will give better
performance and longer life than the RV/marine batteries. They are
still relatively light in weight and easy to handle and have lower
per-amp-hour costs than the RV/marine batteries. They are also less
susceptible to damage from overcharge and can handle higher charging
currents.
Disadvantages: Since they
normally are 6 volt and most home power systems are 12 volt, these
batteries require a series-parallel connection which is a little more
complicated. They will give off more gas during charging and should
be stored in a ventilated area. There will be some water loss which
will require replacement water periodically. Their 6 volt
configuration limits the amp hour capacity so they are not good
batteries for large systems.
INDUSTRIAL/STATIONARY
BATTERIES
These
batteries, which are normally manufactured as individual 2 volt
units, are available in a broad range of capacities to 3000 amp
hours. Six 2 volt units are connected in series for 12 volt systems.
They are an excellent choice for medium to large capacity home power
systems.
Advantages: These batteries have
the advantage of long life under deep cycling conditions. Since the
desired system capacity can be achieved in one six-cell
configuration, charge/discharge characteristics are excellent.
Maintenance and cycling specifications will vary but are well suited
to home power applications.
Disadvantages: The initial
set-up costs will be higher, because of the additional amp hour
capacity. Also, these batteries are quite heavy (to 350 lb. per 2
volt cell) and will require a well-supported area and special
handling and transportation assistance.
NICKEL
CADMIUM/NICKEL IRON BATTERIES
The
batteries previously discussed are called "lead-acid"
batteries in that they consist of lead plates in a sulfuric acid
solution and are the most common batteries utilized in home power
applications. Nickel cadmium and nickel iron batteries consist of
nickel alloy plates in an alkaline solution which dramatically alters
the operating characteristics of the battery. These batteries are
also good choices for home power systems but involve special
considerations.
Advantages:
1)
They are longer life. The best lead-acid batteries may achieve 20
years whereas the nickel alloys can have a 50 year life.
2)
Maintenance is lower due to higher voltage characteristics and their
ability to sit partially or totally discharged for extended periods
of time without failure.
3)
Battery voltage on the nickel alloy batteries does not follow the
basically linear pattern of the lead-acid batteries during discharge
so much more of the rated amp hour capacity is actually available at
the practical level. In addition, the nickel alloy batteries can be
repeatedly completely discharged without damage or loss of battery
life.
4)
The nickel alloy batteries are not easily damaged by severe cold and
retain higher discharge potential than the lead-acid in colder
temperatures.
5)
Nickel alloy batteries have lower internal resistance so matching
batteries of differing ages and sizes in a home power system battery
bank is much easier than with lead-acid batteries.
Disadvantages:
1)
The initial cost of purchasing a nickel alloy battery bank is very
high compared to lead-acid, even with the reconditioned batteries
(which are most prevalent in home power systems). This is the major
deterrent to most people.
2)
the broad charging voltage range creates some compatibility problems
which have to be addressed when matching the nickel alloy batteries
to other home power equipment such as inverters or chargers.
3)
Their non-linear discharge rate makes the charge state of the nickel
alloy batteries more difficult to monitor.
4)
The nickel alloy batteries are often not as easily disposed of as
lead-acid batteries when their useful life has ended.
Lead
- Acid batteries
Batteries
serve as a storage device for electrical energy. Although the general
idea is simple, batteries must be carefully selected and maintained
to have a reliable power system. If batteries are poorly selected or
maintained, they can degrade at a rapid pace and require frequent or
premature replacement, often at considerable expense.
Cycling
The
normal use of a battery is known as cycling. Cycling is the process
of removing electricity from and replacing it to a battery system.
When electricity has been consumed and then replaced, it can be said
that the battery has been cycled. The extent of the cycling or the
depth of discharge is usually expressed as a percentage of the total
battery capacity. Thus, if 50 amp hours is consumed from a 100 amp
hour battery , it is said to be 50% discharged. A cycle exceeding
about 20% of a batteries capacity is said to be a deep cycle, while a
discharge and replacement of less than 20% is referred to as a
shallow cycle.
Efficiency
Not
all the energy that is put into a battery can be taken back out. Some
10 to 20 percent will be lost ultimately to heat through the
electrochemical charging process. As such, 110 - 120 amp hours must
be imparted to a battery to provide 100 amp hours of usable energy.
In
addition to the losses incurred during charging, another source of
energy loss is self-discharge. The "typical" lead acid
battery will lose 10 - 20% of its energy in a month, more at high
temperatures, less at lower temperatures. Lead calcium batteries have
lower self discharge rates than lead antimony types, but perform
poorly as true deep cycle batteries.
Temperature
As
well as affecting self discharge rates, temperature affects battery
performance in other ways. The optimum performance temperature range
for batteries is 60 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. At these temperatures,
the battery will perform at 100% of its rated capacity. As
temperatures drop, battery longevity increases, but performance
drops. The battery goes into a state of partial "suspended
animation" and only some of it’s potential power is available.
You may have experienced this while starting your car in cold
weather. (unless you are fortunate enough to live where there is no
such thing as cold weather.) For example, at freezing (32 degrees
Fahrenheit) some 65% of battery capacity can be utilized, but at zero
only 40 percent is available.
Freezing
Freezing
of batteries is a major concern of northern climate inhabitants. A
fully charged battery typically will not freeze down to 70 to 90
degrees below zero, while a fully discharged battery is susceptible
to freezing at +32 degrees. This is because of the chemical process
which creates electricity in a battery. As a battery becomes
discharged, the sulfuric acid in the electrolyte gradually bonds to
the lead oxide in the battery plates. As this process continues, the
electrolyte becomes less and less concentrated, until finally it is
(theoretically but I wouldn’t drink it) pure water. Since water
freezes at +32 F, the dead battery will then freeze at this
temperature. Damage caused by freezing is mostly mechanical, I.E. the
bursting of cases, plate breakage, separator failure, mechanical
shorting, plate material delamination and many other woes too hideous
to mention. Although batteries can sometimes survive even a severe
freeze-up, there is always damage done, and reduced life can be
expected.
Maintenance
A
properly maintained battery bank can last 10, 20, or even 30 years in
rare instances. A poorly maintained bank of the same quality can be
ruined in a matter of months (or even days at the hands of an
expert). This is why battery maintenance is so important. Here are
the basic do’s & don’ts:
DO:
Water batteries after charging ,
but only to the indicated full mark.
Keep the batteries from
freezing, especially when discharged
Use
only distilled water to water batteries
Periodically check the specific
gravity of each cell with a hydrometer - Wide (<.020) variations
indicate the need for an equalize charge and can indicate a failing
cell.
Perform an equalization charge
every 3 months or so, regardless of specific gravity variation, to
remove any sulfation and mix the electrolyte. This is energy well
spent.
Wear goggles when dealing with
batteries. Gloves and a rubber apron are a good idea as well.
Keep a supply of fresh water on
hand when working around batteries. This can be used to rinse hands,
eyes, or clothing to remove battery acid.
Keep batteries stored at a full
state of charge. Long term discharge causes batteries to sulfate, and
will eventually render them useless.
Educate yourself in the care and
maintenance of the batteries you are using.
DONT:
Use
tap water
Work on batteries with metal
tools immediately after or during charging, they could cause a spark
and subsequent explosion
Overcharge your batteries
Allow connections to get so
corroded that you can barely see them for the gooky stuff, or at all,
when possible.
Work with batteries without
proper safety equipment and procedures.
Drop batteries, especially on
your toe.
GOOD
IDEAS:
Keep a log of specific gravity
readings and voltages
Keep safety stuff in the battery
area for easy access
Equalizing
An
equalization charge is merely a controlled overcharging of the
battery bank. This can be accomplished by using a generator and
battery charger or other power sources with the voltage regulation
equipment turned off. The object is to bring battery voltage to 15 -
16 volts and hold it there until hydrometer readings in all cells are
equal or have stopped increasing, or until all sulfation (white
flecks on the plates) has been removed, or both. 15 -16 volts is too
high for some electronic equipment, so you should check maximum
ratings and disconnect these items as necessary. At these charging
voltages, water loss will be significant and water should be replaced
as needed. Take care that the batteries do not get hot to the touch
(warm is OK) and if necessary reduce charging current or voltage.
Gassing
Gassing
is a normal process that batteries undergo while charging. During the
charging process, hydrogen and oxygen are released into the air
through the vents on the battery tops, usually along with some water
vapor. This can often form a damp surface on the battery that is
conductive, leading to corrosion. Remove this film by rinsing with
hot water. Water loss through gassing can be reduced through the use
of hydrocaps, little catalyst do - dads that recombine the hydrogen &
oxygen into water, which drains back into the battery.
Caution
Because
gassing produces hydrogen (very flammable) and oxygen (which makes
things even more flammable) great care should be taken not to
inadvertently ignite this (flammable) mixture. Although the
quantities produced are small, in a tightly confined space (like in
the tops of the batteries) a flame or spark can cause a violent
explosion, shattering batteries and sending acid and debris flying
about at ridiculous speeds. It is good practice to give batteries the
same consideration you would afford to a fuel can or tank in this
respect. (unless you are one of those folks who puts out cigarettes
in gas cans just to prove that it won’t light)(this is a very,
very, bad idea)
Corrosion
Through
the gassing process, some corrosion can be expected to accumulate on
battery terminals or metal in the vicinity of the batteries. This can
easily be removed with HOT water and a scrub brush. Be sure to rinse
clean, and as always when working with batteries, wear eye
protection. If left unchecked, corrosion can destroy battery posts
and terminals, eat through enclosures, and even create dangerous
sparks if connections fail. While sometimes fun to watch, corrosion
is generally a bad thing and should be held in check through regular
cleaning and maintenance. (kind of like teeth)
Enclosures
Batteries
should be placed in a vented enclosure that will maintain a
temperature of 50-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Sometimes this is simply not
possible, but you should do the best that you can. Proper venting of
the battery compartment helps to remove the hydrogen and is easily
accomplished. Merely venting the highest part of the battery box to
the outside is often all that is required. Small battery banks may
not require venting, but should be protected from sparks & open
flame.
Determining
the state of charge
The
state of charge of a lead acid battery can be checked in several
ways. The first, and arguably easiest method is to measure the
voltage of the battery bank. A fully charged 12 volt battery will
read about 12.7 volts at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. (double this for 24
volt systems) By the time the voltage reads 12.2, it is 50%
discharged, and at 11.9 it is considered empty. The problem with
measuring charge in this way is that if there has been any recent
activity (charging or discharging) in the batteries, the readings
will be highly inaccurate, and temperature can also adversely affect
the reading. The second method to determine the state of charge is to
use a hydrometer. By measuring the specific gravity of the battery
bank, the hydrometer can give you an accurate indication of remaining
energy. For example, a fully charged battery may read 1.270, at 50%
read 1.190, and at 1.100 be discharged. Hydrometer readings should be
adjusted for temperature, and should be performed with the batteries
at rest for at least ½ hour. The third and most convenient way to
measure battery capacity is with an amp hour meter. These totalizing
meters measure energy flow into and out of the battery and keep a
running total of available energy at any given instant. Although they
may require occasional resynchronization, these meters are very
accurate and provide at a glance insight into the state of your
system.
The sprouts are doing much better then I even expected. Still getting the yard ready preparing the soil. Harvesting worms from the soil and placing them in their own soil. Just to protect them from my shoveling. Some worms I just placed in the garden areas that are set. Carfully covering them to protect them. 
I worked on reducing my without loosing the main content. This allowed me to save on the coast of printing bringing the coast down to $7.00. If any one is interested in getting a copy let me know. You can see a better preview of the book at blurb.com look up newly published by Kathy Hunt.
